Gastronomia francesa: uma receita pelas mãos dos chefs nordestinos nos restaurantes de São Paulo

Abstract

In 1997, the state of São Paulo was honored with the title of Gastronomy s World Capital a recognition of the Brazilian Association of Gastronomy, Hospitality and Tourism (ABRESI). At the same time, Paris (in the category of hors concurs), Tokyo, New York, Rome, Madrid, Lisbon, Mexico City and Buenos Aires also were granted with these title. From all the cities honored, São Paulo is the one with the largest number of international cuisines represented by bars and restaurants. Currently, São Paulo has 42 French restaurants, of which at least 12 of them have their cuisines led by chefs from the Brazilian Northeastern region. The cuisine developed by these chefs combines the universe of the cuisines with a food system that involves the combination of products, skills, practices, styles, habits and behaviors that define not only what is eaten and who will eat, but also those who turn food into meal. The focus of this study is to understand some characteristics of these chefs trajectories from the Brazilian Northeastern that have been developing their activities in French restaurants installed in São Paulo. To rebuild the cuisine prepared by these chefs and how they have been changing the tradition of French cuisine, as well as ingredients and spices used in the menu definition, we have used oral history methodology. The period defined for this study covers the last thirty years, having as a reference early 1980s